FOR THIS, YOU WILL NEED:

Micro-Sol

Micro-Set

A sharp modelling knife

A small paintbrush

Some water, preferably in a receptacle like a small dish as trying to hold it in your palm is difficult.

I cannot recommend Micro-Sol and Micro-Set enough, I would even go as far as saying don’t bother trying without them! They help the transfer conform to the surface, prevent trapped bubbles and reduce ‘silvering’ (where you can see the transfer film).

The transparent decal material is one piece, not just the coloured part of the transfer, so cut as close to the decal as you can. Bear in mind that cutting paper will blunt your blade.

I have drawn cutting-out guides onto the transfer to help with this. It is best to apply the different parts of the transfer (main text, secondary text, tare weight etc.) separately and not all at once.

It is always best to have as little transfer film as possible.

Apply over gloss paint - this helps it stick and reduces silvering.

Brush a small amount of Micro-Set onto the surface of the model. This will help it stick.

Put the transfer in the water (the water does not have to be warm).

Once it starts to separate, pull the transfer out, try to remove as much water as possible before gently and carefully applying it to the model.

Once firmly pressed into place (I use a small brush for this) apply Micro-Sol in to get a smooth finish. Micro-Sol helps the decal conform to the shape underneath and reduces ‘webbing’ where the transfer gets air pockets trapped underneath.

It is also useful to use the brush to absorb excess moisture. 

The transfer should settle flat over rivet detail. If it doesn’t, then apply more Micro-Sol and leave for a couple of minutes before gently pressing on it with a damp cloth or kitchen roll. If it’s dry it will stick!

The transfer will wrinkle with Micro-Sol but don’t panic! It should settle down again. If you have to, use the brush sparingly and try not to drag it around. 

Once it begins to dry, and if you have air bubbles, try popping them with the end of the blade and then stick a bit more Micro-Sol on there to get the transfer film to stick down.

Once applied and in place, leave it for 24 hours to dry.

Seal the decal with a small amount of matt varnish/lacquer. Don’t use too much, a gentle ‘waft’ will do. I have had good results from Tamiya Matt Lacquer. Dullcote is also good.

Do 2 coats, with approx. 15 minutes between them, then leave for 48 hours to harden.

Weathering

Be careful when using washes as they can react with the decal and lacquer, and lift the ink off.

Leave it a few weeks for the lacquer to completely cure if you intend to use enamel washes. Acrylic washes and powders are generally OK to use but err on the side of caution.